![]() I am going to change my "stop" setting today, so the only thing limiting seating should be my pressure on the primer setting lever. Texasref wrote.I mention this due to the fact that on a true progressive sometimes being in a hurry we don't get a full stroke on the machine.For a different reason, I think what you wrote is the likely problem. So, my question - for those of you doing something similar, to you seat your primers by "feel", or with a mechanical stop for seating depth? The last sentence of the instructions is what I think I should do again. ![]() I suspect that with the my new Starline brass, this won't be an issue. ![]() (I don't like the idea of cleaning after removing the primer, with the remote chance that the hole in the case could be plugged with media, and I might not catch it.) (I asked about cleaning primer pockets long ago, and the responses were that it wasn't necessary.) I suspect I should loosen the travel stop, and just do this by feel, like I used to. I haven't done anything yet - when I first got the RCBS Pro2000 press, I selected seating the primers by "feel", and never had a problem. The press has a screw and lock nut that can limit the travel of the press on the "up-stroke" to seat the primer - or, I can loosen that up and seat the primers by "feel". This also got me thinking to a previous discussion I had about setting up my reloading press. The group suggested that I remove the primers before or after cleaning, then use my S&W "pocket brush" to clean out the opening. I've never had this problem with any of my other guns, but the Model 14 apparently has tighter tolerances.Īs we discussed this after shooting for a few hours, the answer seemed to be pretty clear - the primer wasn't seated all the way. Sitting those two rounds on a flat surface, it was obvious that the primer was not flush with the bottom of the case, but the case barely rocked back and forth. All the new ammo worked perfectly, but two of the older rounds loaded ok, but the cylinder "tightened up" as it rotated to get the next round in place.Ī friend of mine sitting next to me has had the same problem - his revolver has practically zero space at the forcing cone, and if one of his primers isn't perfectly pressed into the case, the cylinder "binds" like mine does. I expected more from RCBS products.I took my S&W Model 14 to the range today, shooting some of my rather old reloads, and then my new reloads in Starline Cases. You would think that as many years as RCBS has been making press's and other reloading items they would have noticed or at least gotten complaints about it that they would have corrected it some time ago. This is all good but I now need to spend another $21.00 to hopefully correct the issues. I noticed after looking at some youtube videos that this is a common issue and someone has made a custom primer catch with their 3D printer. It is very difficult to remove them as the right link pin is hollow and primers will collect in there and make it a bitch to remove them. ![]() It seems that the primer catcher does not sit close enough to the ram to catch all the old primers and then they fall down and jam up the ram and it is not adjustable. After inspection I noticed that old primers were not falling into the primer catcher and falling down into the opening below the primer deflector. I noticed some small shavings on metal on the right side of the ram. On day one after full size and decaping the primers the ram would not go up, stuck about 1/2 way up.Īfter several attemps at raising the ram it broke free and all seemed good.ġ0 rounds latter same thing. I have been using RCBS rock chucker for about 30 years now and decided to sell it and buy a new RCBS turret press. Anyone using the RCBS turret press #98277?
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